I’m on my way back along the K&A, returning to Reading. This is where I’ll turn up the Thames toward Oxford. I had considered going downstream to Hampton Court or Windsor Castle but there’s so much happening on the river that it seems kind of congested and I’ve been warned against it. So I’ll turn north and head toward the smaller canals up in the Midlands. The trip toward Bath was certainly made better with the company I kept. Guy, Rose, Bob, and Cate from Into the Blue were amazing, we had the best time together. And I learned lots from Guy, even if I’m not following him out on the Severn! Here’s Bob and Guy, and the group at a pub deciding on drinks.

Somewhat to my surprise, I’m not minding retracing my route. It’s a different perspective, and a second chance to see and photograph stuff I missed on the way ‘up’. There’s been all kinds of little things that I seemed to have skipped, I’m enjoying the new and even liking seeing the familiar places again.


I’ve now parted company with my latest boatload of friends. Rich and Jane (and Dorothy and Olaf) were great fun and I loved the time with them. I met them near Bath, on board were also Karen, Jill, and Jo but there were some crew changes and only Rich and Jane continued. We did the flight up together and now they’re heading back down to return their hire boat… I’ve continued on toward Newbury.


Okay, since I didn’t post that last section due to limited Internet and a somewhat busy party schedule, I’ll just add to it. After saying goodbye to Rich and Jane and their puppers, I arrived at Newbury again. Having found another great mooring in the 14 day area, I decided to spend a bit of time. I had previously tried to go to Highclere Castle to see the Egyptian exhibits and relive some Downton Abbey memories but it doesn’t open until the middle of July. But, and this is interesting…

A couple of years ago Lady Carnarvon was doing some research for a book about famous visitors to their home. On a page in the guestbook from 1866, along with Benjamin Disraeli and his wife, were the names John Macdonald, George Cartier, and a man named Galt. She decided to look into who they were, and quickly discovered that they, along with others, had visited the castle several times in the process of negotiating for, and writing, the British North America Act. As I’m sure you all remember from school (hehe), the BNA formed the constitution of Canada at it’s formation as a country in 1867. The drafts, written largely at Highclere, were taken to Queen Victoria (and Parliament and the House of Lords) by the 4th Earl of Carnarvon for final approval. As an added interesting note, the Queen approved the name “Canada” but only if it included “The Dominion of”! Nobody at the time minded apparently, so we had Dominion Day instead of Canada Day for all those years. (I still like the sound of Dominion Day better).


Once all this had come to light, Lord and Lady Carnarvon decided to showcase the documents, photographs, and history of these events. They now open the castle on July 1st for special access. And I was able to go! They had lots to see and read about, and most of the house was open for viewing (except, unfortunately, the Egytian exhibits). They limited the number of guest to 150, instead of the usual 1000 per day as in the summer. So it was very relaxed and simply lovely. Nothing like afternoon tea at Downton Abbey either! (no pictures inside the house unfortunately).

Thanks so much for sharing the day with me Jo, it was so nice to have such great company! I am going to send the Castle some Canadian flags, there was an appalling lack of them.


After leaving Newbury, I started sharing locks with Annie, Juliette, and Roger. They are lovely people from Chipping Campdon (I love that name), cruising on Annie’s boat. We spent a couple of days together, firstly because they needed a CRT key to open the lift and swing bridges, and later because we were having so much fun together! We visited some pubs, bought some Indian take-away and just generally enjoyed each other’s company.

So, now back in Reading. I’ll do some cleaning, some shopping, and some maintenance in preparation for the Big River (the mighty Thames). I will be doing some tourist stuff too, in London. I can’t miss the opportunity, it’s just a short train ride away and the boat is safe in the marina.

I hope everyone is having a great summer so far. Be safe, and feel free to add comments. I love hearing from you.

After sampling the delights of Bath, and meeting some really extrordinary people, I’m heading back toward Reading, with plans to either visit Hampton Court Palace and Windsor Palace, or head straight up the Thames to Oxford. I’ll decide on the way. There likely won’t be too many photos for this stretch since I’ve covered it already. If I see anything new, I’ll be sure to document it. It’s back up the Caen Hill Flight!

I thought this would be a good time to put down some of my thoughts and impressions of the whole adventure. I’ve already covered (ad nauseum) how much fun it is so I won’t go into that. But there are some things that have come out of it that are quite interesting (to me, at least).

I had done a lot of reading and YouTubing before coming over here so I thought I was at least somewhat prepared. There is lots said and written about the ‘bad’ side of the canals and canal life. I guess because it’s seen as an inexpensive way to live, it attracts a certain segment of the population. Like much of England, and the West in general, there’s a large, obvious disparity in how much has been spent on boats, let’s just say. There are many, many rather run-down looking narrowboats and various other types scattered along the canal. Due to the licensing system, they have to move at least every 14 days, a minimum of 5 miles (and can’t just ping-pong between the same two points). So they tend to move a few miles and moor up, doing this a few times before returning. The rules aren’t very clear and there’s lots of controversy. I was a little concerned about this whole thing, and what ‘sort’ of people I’d run into. Well, I can say, they are awesome. Down-to-earth and friendly to a person. As an example, I was working on the boat the other morning and a tattoed and pretty rough-looking chap walked by with a big tray of fresh eggs. I asked him where he got them, thinking I could go and get some too. He pointed back toward the road, said just a couple of doors down, then handed me the tray and asked if I wanted some! Amazing, a total stranger and just offered me some of his food. I might have been cautious to even talk to him before coming here.

There’s been other things that I’ve learned:

-narrowboats are heavy. And momentum is a thing. It’s almost impossible to get them to do anything gently, it’s pretty much full power and full tiller until things start moving (which might take a while). Just cruising along straight requires a fairly subtle touch but if it requires a real turn, push the tiller AND the throttle all the way! Just be ready to switch back the other way as quickly to counteract.

-going astern for any distance is not impossible, but isn’t any fun at all. But I might have discovered the secret, I’ll have to do more experimenting. I think what it is, the ‘prop walk’ (boaters will know) is greater than the effect the rudder can have so if you try to go faster, it’s worse. Damn thing snakes all over the place. But if you just get it moving slowly and gently, you end up with some steering (sort of the opposite of going forward!).

-pub food is awesome. One meal a day is often enough. I don’t know if that’s the food or the libations that come with it, but I’m a fan.

-hire boaters aren’t all idiots, and boat owners don’t all know that they’re doing. I’ve stopped judging until they run into something (hopefully not me).

-locks are a nice change from standing and steering. If they’re far enough apart, that is. The Caen Hill Flight (which I’ve moaned about previously) is a pretty long day of 29 locks without a break. Best done with another boat, preferably one with a large crew; I can’t imagine doing it alone. I did the first few days of the trip entirely on my own, probably 6-7 locks each day, and was pretty much done in at the end of each day. Mind you, I was just starting out and made plenty of mistakes. I tended to miss steps and have to go back, or just take the long way around. I’m must more efficient now, I can probably do a lock in half the time and a quarter of the energy expenditure! But actually they’re interesting and fun. Swing bridges too. Except the ones that a singlehanded cruiser CAN’T do (yes, they exist). The landing is on the wrong side, you have to sort of back in and tie your stern to the bridge…it’s messy.

-my hot water stays hot enough for a shower for at least 24 hours without having to run the engine or furnace.

-my favorite cider is Thatchers Haze (because that’s what’s within reach at this moment)

-never miss the opporunity to say hello to the person walking by. You never know what you’ll learn.

-check your oil and filters regularly.

-don’t mess with a parent swan. Or any swan. Geese are friendly by comparison.

-wave to kids. Even if they don’t wave back, their mother will.

Some pictures:

Dorothy, chillin on my couch.

Farm fresh

Anyone have any idea what the hell this is?

Don’t hit my boat, I just varnished it.

Even small village churches are cool.

So, I’ve been here in Bath for a couple of days. The first night I wandered about the city a bit but it was rather late, I’d been cruising all day, and I was bit tired so called it early. But Bath has one of only four bridges in Europe with shops lining it…

 

I had hoped to do the touristy thing the next day but decided to join some friends

and move down the locks toward the centre of the city. That didn’t prove too successful, there were no moorings anywhere! They continued toward Bristol while I worked my way back up three of the locks before finding a lovely spot to moor for the night.

On the way though was the second deepest lock in England, at 19.5′. I managed it on my own with no issues. It’s tough to control the boat from above, I did it by tying to the long poles running up the sides (a slip line) and opening the paddles just enough to keep it from banging into the walls. Just climbing up after entering was an experience!

Here’s my view for the evening…

I couldn’t leave the boat however, as it was a disabled spot and I had to stay in case it was needed and I could move the boat. Nobody ever came however.

So it’s now the next day, I quickly moved up to the top of the locks and found an amazing mooring, right at the top of a path leading directly (5 minutes) to the centre of the city. I walked into town with a fellow (Rich) that works in the Roman Baths, so he got me in right away, bypassing the line!

A further tour of this beautiful city, and back to the Bath Abbey. It dominates the skyline, and is quite a beautiful church. However, they’re doing a huge renovation of the floor. In Victorian times the stones on the floor were removed and replaced rather haphazardly. Most were monuments (perhaps had people’s remains under them) but were often broken an replaced in the wrong places. In addition, the floor has subsided in locations where heating pipes were added so it all has to be catalogued and removed again. Volunteers are attemping to glean as much information as they can from the writing on the stones, often very difficult to do. Once the floor is stabilized again, they’re going to pipe hot spring water (from the Roman Baths next door) underneath to both heat the building and keep it at a constant temperature. Very cool (and expensive) project.

 

Okay, gotta send this, have wifi at the pub! I’ve been sending a lot of pictures, which requires quite a bit of bandwidth. So in the next few days I might bore you all and write some words. They’re easier to upload through my phone… I’ve had a lot of experiences, met a lot of people, and had plenty of time to think as I putter along at a couple of miles per hour. I might start putting some of those thoughts down.

I miss everyone and hope you are all well. Please feel free to Email, WhatsApp, Hangouts, Viber, or Messenger me (or just comment on the blog), I’d love to hear from you.

I’ve spent a couple of days here, it’s a great mooring and lovely town. I’ve also had the great company of “Into the Blue” and haven’t wanted to leave! I do want to continue to Bath soon however, but in the meantime it’s a great place to relax and let the bit of rain pass.

The town has a ‘Tithe Barn”, built at the old abbey. It was the location where the surrounding ‘serfs’ and others would bring the tithe to pay the church. It’s really quite huge, a very impressive building that must have held an immense amount of food (wealth). There were some archeologists photographing mason’s marks and other engraved images on many of the building stones.

And, some pubs…

I spent part of Sunday strolling around the town, attempting to visit some churches. Wouldn’t you know it, they were busy. People were in them, using them for what they were built for (on a Sunday!). I’ll have to go back later to get photos. A couple were empty however, including a very old Saxon church, possibly dating from the 8th century.

Across the road from that was Holy Trinity, where organ music was emanating. I peeked in the door and realized it was, in fact, totally empty except for the organist. I got some video but unfortunately I can’t upload it yet.

It too dates back a bit, but not nearly as far…

 

The Avon River runs through town (obviously), with it’s beautiful six arch bridge and chapel. The chapel was turned into the town jail (gaol) at one time, now it’s unused. The town rises in the background, and it’s very steep.

Tomorrow I hope to reach Bath…

 

 

One of the goals of this trip is to not rush. No schedule, no deadlines. I broke that rule yesterday, I wanted to get some laundry done but the service laundry (where they do it for you) had to get the stuff by about lunchtime for me to get it back that day. So I essentially rushed all the way from Wootton Rivers to Devizes but was too late anyway. Fortunately, the local laundrette also does your laundry for you! No sitting around guarding your machine and plugging in coins… I came back an hour and a half later, it was done.

We had a nice evening in Devizes, it’s a nice town but fairly busy. The Indian curry we had was great though, who knew I’d like ostrich? Got lots of sleep in preparation for the next day…

A real mixture of old and new…

So, the Caen Hill Flight. I’m sure everyone is sick of hearing about this, but it was a bit of a thing to me. Before I had ever done a lock I knew about this challenge. Since I was planning on cruising single-handed, I was quite concerned that it would be too much for me. There’s no overnight mooring allowed during the main 16 locks so I knew that I had to get through at least those in one day.

After starting out and actually experiencing locks, I realized that 16 was possible, although probably with some level of exhaustion. Then, the more people I talked to the less daunting it appeared. Once I met and teamed up with “Into the Blue” there was no longer any problem whatsoever.

Upon reaching the actual flight of 16 locks, the view was spectacular. And the engineering feat was obvious.

Guy tied the boats together and then went ahead and set each lock. Rose and Cate (and a volunteer) would get us through and set the locks after for the next boat. Bob and I pretty much stayed on the boats and drove between locks. With the boats tied together it was simple to navigate into and out of each lock.

There was considerable wind but that never really caused any serious problems. We got all 29 locks done in under 6 hours which includes quite a bit of waiting time for other boats to clear the locks ahead.

Pub time.

The Team!

And Maisie of course! (keeping me company under the table).

I’m not actually going to give a lesson, but I did learn a lot about the Kennet & Avon Canal over the last day or two. So following the last blog’s history lesson, a little more background first…

The K&A canal is the combination of the Kennet Navigation, running from about Crofton eastward to meet the Thames at Reading (where I started out), and the Avon River system that runs westward to join the ocean at Bristol. Back in about 1810 it was decided to link the two systems by digging a canal between them. A problem was soon identified however, that the only source of water was not located at the summit between them. It was a mile to the east, a spring at what became the Wilton Waters (after a lake was created). It was also about 40 feet lower than the summit. So, they built the Crofton Pumping Station, which has what is now the world’s oldest operating beam engines.

The first engine and pump was built in 1812, the second was added in 1846. These engines, powered by huge steam boilers, were capable of pumping about 11 tons of water per minute up 40 feet to a channel that ran westward to the summit. This supplied the water necessary for all the locks in both directions (remember, every time a boat goes through a lock, it releases a huge amount of water downstream).

The photo below is the output from the modern electric pump now in use. It’s pumped into the same channel that the original pumps used (seen in the very foreground, now filled with weeds). What is interesting is that several times a year, they fire up the boilers and start up the old beam engines and pumps. Then they SHUT OFF THE ELECTRIC PUMPS. Yes, the original steam boilers and beam engines continue to do what they were originally designed and built for over 200 years ago! In fact, a couple of times in the last 25 years, the electric pumps have failed and the steam engines were brought online to maintain water in the system.

Now, back to my trip… I have spent the last couple of days in the company of a fantastic group of people. Guy, Rose, Bob, and Cate (and Maisie) are on a narrowboat vacation and we’ve been traversing many of the locks together. They have been the very best company, a source of tons of information and knowledge, and just great fun.

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And of course we have visted some pubs and other establishments as well. This is Pie Night at the Royal Oak in Wooten Rivers, which is one of the most ‘traditional’ looking pubs I’ve seen, with it’s low wooden rafters and crooked doorways. Fantastic. And the Steak and Venison Pie was pretty darn good too.

I guess since it’s been around for a few hundred years it will be pretty traditional.

It’s a charmingling cute village (voted Best Kept in 1986!), where most every house and building has a thatched roof. It was great fun exploring, although we were too late to get into the church to look around.

Note the ‘numbers’ on the tower clock. Apparently this is unique.

My next post will (hopefully) tell of our daring adventure down the famed (and dreaded) Caen Hill Flight. Stay tuned!

The last couple of days have been more of the same. Boringly blissful. I’ve also met more cruisers going through the locks. It’s really helpful to have two in the lock at the same time, they sort of wedge in pretty tightly and don’t bounce around as the water enters. It can be quite violent if the paddles (lifting portals, often on the gate doors themselves) are opened too quickly. The water jets out horizontally, aimed at the front of the boat and can really move it around. So everyone prefers two at a time. Usually the other boat has crew (read: wife) that gets off and works the paddles while the captain (read: husband) stays aboard and watches out for the boat (this involves occasionally putting a little forward or reverse on while standing chatting with me). Don’t ask me why it’s almost always this way… I guess it’s to do with driving into the locks, it’s sometimes difficult to get in without banging the sides, and since there’s often someone watching (gongoozlers), the ‘crew’ don’t want to drive. The ‘captains’ don’t seem to care who’s watching.

Just a note about the history of the canals. The other day I had some pictures of a horse-drawn canal boat. These canals were primary reason that the Industrial Revolution took hold in Britain so early and so strongly. They were soon superseded by the railways, but it was the canals that started it off. The ability to cheaply transport huge quantities of raw materials to industrial centres, and the resulting products to markets, changed the world. Check out the silent but indelible mark of this history (rope marks where the horses pulled the boats under the bridge):

Sunday morning was spent travelling from Newbury to Hungerford. This turned out to be a classic old English village in many ways. The High Street was loaded with antique shops, in fact people come from all over the country to look for antiques here. I had a nice chat with the owners of one amazing shop, they had left stressfull jobs to so this and loved it

That’s me tied up on the end, with the light roof.

Continuing on after lunch for several more locks, I wanted to tie up around 3:30 but the canal sides along this stretch were very overgrown and there was no way I could get close enough to get a rope ashore. I eventually did find a spot that was clear so I pulled in. I realized pretty quickly why nobody was moored there however, it was so shallow I ran aground before I got within about 6 feet (everything’s in feet and inches here) of the bank. I could jump the distance so tied up anyway, laid out my plank and settled in. It was the most peaceful spot I’ve been to yet. It’s a few hundred yards back to the last lock, and about half a mile up to the next bridge and lock. I’ve only seen two people walking the towpath, and no bikes at all. It’s very remote here.

I did hike a couple of miles to a pub (The Pelican) for their WiFi as there is no mobile (cell) coverage at all where I’m moored (you’ll notice I’m picking up the local words more and more. I now say crisps, not chips; and chips, not fries for instance). I got some messaging done and checked my email, while trying out a couple of new types of cider.

Speaking of cider, it’s really a big thing here these days. Lots of different ones, and every one drinks it. There seems to be fewer and fewer beer drinkers (well, in a relative sense, they’re still the vast majority). I found this in the supermarket, I couldn’t resist.

It’s now morning as I continue this, very early morning in fact. I had such a sound sleep that by 4:30 I was wide awake and up. To be honest, I got up because I went to the bathroom and walking down the alleyway I realized the boat was listing noticeable. Here’s why:

I seemed to be able to push it around with the pole, and moved it off the bank further so I’ll be fine (I think). I hadn’t expected the tide to go out… (it’s probably due to that massive leak in the last lock, it should sort itself out when boats start cruising and water is moved down from upper locks). Extra note: I went and shut the lower paddles on the last lock. Even though it’s supposed to be left empty I’ll let it fill and maybe the level up here will rise.

I’ve got more but it’ll have to wait. Might be a couple of days, Internet is scarce out here in the wilds. Just another reason for a pub visit (as if I needed one). Last night’s visit:

I left Newbury this morning after checking out the local Saturday market. The fresh veggies looked great! (if you’re into that sort of thing). Nina, you’d have drooled, except yours are probably even better, right?

Leaving Newbury through the heart of the town was a treat, it’s so intimate with the canal. The only reason the town originally existed was the canal so I guess that makes sense.

As I wended my way through some of the most beautiful countryside ever, I kept coming upon even more idyllic locations. None surpassed Copse Lock though. Peaceful and shaded, it was the epitome of the tranquil, idyllic image of the canal system.

I travelled much of the day with another lovely couple (and their dog of course!), it was so awesome to meet them and share the route. It really was so much easier with their help, and I always love making new friends.  And I suspect Ollie’s tail NEVER stops wagging.

Then as I came around a corner, THIS happened:

This is how the canals used to be, and why there’s a ‘tow path’ along the whole route. It’s a day hire boat, and they all looked like they were having a great time! Except perhaps the horse, but it kept stopping to chew the grass along the way so seemed to be on its own schedule anyway.

I’ve got a great mooring for the night in Kintbury, a village that’s quite popular on this part of the Kennet & Avon Canal. And, of course, to end the day….

 

Thursday was a great travel day. I met up with a lovely couple and we worked our way through lots of locks and swing bridges. It’s much easier with an extra hand and for two narrowboats to be in a lock together (less bouncing around). Bill, Sue, and Sam were great company and I hope to see them soon as even though they went on ahead, they are turning around and coming back in a few days.

I had thought about staying an extra night in Newbury but changed my mind when I arrived. It wasn’t that interesting, just seemed a bit industrial. So I spent the night, intending on leaving the next day. Then in the morning I walked along the canal looking for some information, and came across the actual town! It’s got a great High Street, lots of pubs and shops, and looked very nice. So I stayed another night after all. I tried to get tickets to see A Midsummer Night’s Dream at a local theatre but unfortunately it was sold out. I also tried to go see Highclere Castle  but it’s not open until July. They have a special opening on July 1st for Canada Day, apparently the 4th Lord Carnarvon was instrumental in facilitating talks with Sir John A. Macdonald and others in 1865 and 1866 concerning the formation of Canada. Lost of documents and stuff on display. They also, of course, have a tremendous Egyptian collection from the 5th Lord Carnarvon’s funding of the discovery and excavation of some Egyptian pharaoh named Tat, or Tot, or something. Oh, and it’s the set for Downton Abbey too.

(Small print: Not my picture)

So I spent Friday walking around Newbury. It’s a nice town, an interesting mix of the old and new. It’s got the requisite parish church, built in the 15th century (on the ruins of an older one of course). It’s a great example of the ‘perpendicular’ style, or later Gothic. Really beautiful stained glass too.

I also did a bunch of shopping, I finally have all the bits that I think I’ll need. So over the next few days, if the weather holds and I find good moorings, I’ll attack some more of the items on the ‘to do’ list.

I took the opportunity of a relaxed day to catch up on the pub crawl statistics. Two today, not a record but it’ll do. Neither were particularly noteworthy, the first was a chain pub apparently, but with a name like ‘The Slug and Lettuce’ you’d never know it. Nicely on the canal though. The second, for dinner, was a bit more traditional but the 90’s music was a bit loud (I’m old, remember?). It had a better name too, ‘The Lock Stock & Barrel’. It was right next to the Newbury lock, after all.

So, all in all, a nice town, and a pleasant stay. It was strange in the morning, not moving on. I’ve become quite accustomed to starting out early and cruising quietly along, with the world just drifting by. But I did enjoy exploring the town, and I am glad to have picked up the stuff I needed. I’m looking forward to the next few days too, I’ll pass the high point soon, where I start descending the locks. Then, all too soon, is the dreaded Caen Hill Flight. I’d better start doing pushups.

So, here’s another update. I feel like I’m really getting into the swing of things now. I’m cruising for a few hours in the morning and early afternoon, then mooring somewhere awesome, eating and relaxing for a couple of hours, then doing some work on the boat. That was the plan, and that’s what I’m doing.

So far I’ve done a lot of sanding and a bit of varnishing, some wire brushing and painting, and fixed many small things.

I still need to find more LED bulbs for the interior lights, nearly every single one was burned out (not LEDs) but I was only able to find 12 replacements. There’s about 22 just in the deck head (ceiling). I’ve replaced cupboard door clasps, handles, and hinges. Windows blind repairs. Plumbing issues. Caulking. It seems endless but I’m enjoying making things right. Soon I’ll look around and won’t be overwhelmed with jobs ‘to do’!

The cruising has been spectacular. I realized what it’s like (most of the time); The Jungle Cruise in Disneyland! Without the cheesy jokes and animatronics, but almost identical otherwise! I’ll try to get some video…it’s uncanny. Narrow twisty canals, throaty diesel rumbling quietly, the forest completely overgrown to the water’s edge. There was even some hanging vines that Tarzan could have swung on! It was just Ivy I suspect but it sure looked the part.

There’s been a lot of swing bridges, which are a bit annoying. I have to tie up the boat, block the road traffic, open the bridge, run back and move the boat through, tie up again and run back to lower the bridge and let the traffic through. It would be much quicker with an extra person, and less annoying for the drivers. Most of them have been electric, you simply push a button and it’s all automatic. One of them however was out in the middle of some fields and was Doug-powered. And not that easy…good thing nobody was waiting for that one!

 

Here’s my mooring for the night. I’m on the ‘offside’ (non-towpath) which is actually not allowed since it’s private property. But I couldn’t get into the correct side, it’s just too overgrown. And the ‘landowner’ here appears to be a train track and motorway. Not a single train yet and the highway noise isn’t bad so I’m happy here. It’s an absolutely magical looking location too, completely overgrown. And, since the towpath is on the other side of the canal, nobody is walking by trying to look in my windows.